Kanyaka Creek - Quorn 65km

Overcast morning, and a flat start to the day across the Willochra Plain. Featureless apart from being rimmed by spectacular ranges, hazy in the distance. Plenty of time for me to contemplate how small I was in the middle of it all.

At the edge of the plain, the trail took a turn past Drakes Knob to Simmonston: "the town that never was". Apparently it was surveyed at a place where one of six possible routes for a planned train line was to pass. Blocks were advertised for sale with recommendations that purchasers had better act fast or miss out etc. Unfortunately for the future of Simmonston a different route for the train was chosen. So apart from the ruins of the few buildings that were erected, nothing much remains.

Soon after Simmonston, the trail crossed the Willochra Creek which was deep enough for the bottom of my panniers to drag through the water. Fortunately they were waterproof as advertised - a good test of the manufacturers promises. At least the bike got a bit of a wash.

The trail then passed near the Buckaringa North Campsite. Considered the detour for some water, but thought I had enough to get to the next water at the Warren Gorge camp site. Also the risk of the Warren Gorge tank being empty was low given the amount of rain lately.

Stopped at Proby's grave. Hugh Proby was the third son of a Scottish Earl who had served as an Admiral with Nelson at the battles of the Nile and Trafalgar. I suppose as the third son, he was well down the pecking order in terms of inheritance which I suspect might have been part of his motivation to head to South Australia to attempt to make his own way. He ended up taking on the Kanyaka Run but tragically drowned in the Willochra Creek trying to save a mob of cattle in a thunderstorm. His family shipped a one-and-a-half ton granite slab from Scotland to Port Augusta, from where it was carted by a bullock team and used to cover his lonely grave. Quite a journey!

The trail moved into some fantastic country. Had never driven through this bit but had wondered as I passed along the main road by car what was "over there".

Was a bastard of a headwind, and I was relieved to detour into the Warren Gorge camp site just as I was draining the last of my water bottles. Cut it a bit fine!

Stopped for a top up and to brew a coffee. Was a good campsite, but was scarred with lots of old fireplaces. I always wonder why people insist on building mini versions of the great wall of china around their fire places, usually only a few meters away from another example from a previous camper.

Pushed off again into the wind, up and over a ridge with brilliant views of the plains below, land use changing from grazing to wheat. A long push into the strengthening wind followed finally slogging my way into Quorn. Felt like a bigger distance than 65 kilometers, was completely stuffed. More rain forecast tonight so I grabbed a cabin at the caravan park.

The PDA containing all my ebooks got a cracked screen today...too much shaking. The second hand books on sale in the caravan park weren't worth carrying the weight. Fortunately there's good phone coverage here so downloaded some free gutenberg ebooks onto my phone to keep me going.

The bike is trucking along well. As comfortable as can be expected. I'm loving the way this mode of transport slows you down. The speed, the physical limits of my fitness determine my next move. It forces me to pause and have a look. And to wait a while...recovering. I've been buzzed a few times in the last couple of days by 4wd buses full of people peering at me from on high. My aching legs tell me to envy them, but the rest of my senses (vision, smell, hearing) suggest it is they who should be envious.

Quorn is an interesting place. Strolled up and down some of the streets this afternoon. Lots of closed shops, but a few art galleries open. Sitting in the front bar of the Austral Hotel, the dining room is full, the bar is busy. They seem to be doing ok. Summer must be hard though. Not many people passing through - just locals and people on business I would imagine.